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Travel and Cruising

Oars Away Across the Atlantic

| Travel and Cruising | January 29, 2012

Anybody flying from Europe to the Caribbean islands, with a sharp eye out on the vast blue ocean beneath, over the last few weeks might have seen something more than a little strange.

For sure, the odd container ship or oil tanker would definitely have been over flown as well as the bright, white sails of a yacht or the splash from a pod of dolphins or pilot whales. But none of this fits into the category of strange.

The winter season is the “safe” time of year for small boats of all sorts to make the passage from East to West into the tropics from the African mainland or the Canary Islands. Nearly all of these small boats are yachts making the annual migration to sunshine and swaying palm trees, following in the wake of Columbus, who made the passage over five hundred years ago, but these days more than just yachts are plying these waters.

It has become an annual tradition for eccentrics and athletes alike, in anything from beer barrels to kayaks and rowing boats, to try their luck at crossing the Atlantic. These men and women are almost always completing the journey to break a world record or are trying to raise money for a worthy charity.

Sunset over Caribbean Sea, Barbados © PHB.cz - Fotolia.com

What make the attempts plausible are the prevailing winds that sweep down the African coast from the shores of Spain and Portugal southwards passing the Canaries and taking anything on the surface of the water towards the equator. A little further south, off the coast of Mauritania, the wind starts to curve towards the Caribbean and becomes the famous trade winds. These are usually predictable winds, blowing from anywhere from 10 to 30 knots, which drive small vessels from East to West before them. Theoretically anybody with a seaworthy craft – even a beer barrel – can therefore cross the Atlantic given time – all they have to do is drift with the wind and the waves and they will eventually get there – assuming they have enough food, water and patience.

This year has been the turn of at least two transatlantic rowing challenges. The bigger one was the Atlantic Challenge, in which 17 rowing boats of all sizes took off form La Gomera in the Canaries to race against each other to stake a claim on the 3000 nautical miles to Barbados in the Caribbean. The other was the Atlantic Odyssey – a six man team trying to beat a 30 day record to cross from the Moroccan coast to Barbados.

Neither of these challenges has been incident free.

One of the boats was rolled by an enormous wave, after floundering in heavy 10 metre swells for days. The oars were lost, but the crew kept rowing after having their oars replaced by a back up yacht. The yacht, the “Aurora”, was towing another boat that had completely lost its electrical power and was being used for spares.

Another rowing boat with four amputees on board lost the use of their desalinator. These small machines are used on the boats to convert seawater into drinking water. Without fresh water, the crew had progressively reduced their intake and had to wait for the Aurora to deliver another machine.

Another crew had lost their boat altogether after a capsize, but luckily for them they had been picked up by a nearby passing luxury cruise liner and got carried to St Maarten in the Caribbean in style and comfort.

The boats, who accept outside assistance from the “Aurora” or anybody else, are automatically disqualified form the race even if they keep going under their own steam.

More fortunate was a five woman rowing team, who completed a world record crossing in 45 days when they arrived in Barbados, a little unsteady on their feet, earlier this month.

Also successful was Andrew Robinson, a solo rower, who completed the fastest solo crossing ever, arriving in Barbados, after 39 days.

But spare a thought for the Atlantic Odyssey crew of 6 in the veteran rowing boat, the “Sara G.” They are still at sea, struggling with winds that are just a little too light. This crew of 6 athletes is trying to make the crossing from Morocco to Barbados in less than 30 days and to do that they need to keep an average speed of 3.5 knots.

As of today, they still have 500 nautical miles to go and are making slow progress. Cloudy skies and light winds have meant that their power is down and they have had to cut back on water and food as the desalinator is used to provide water for their dehydrated food rations as well.

They are still in with a chance at the record though, and with 6 days to go they are already dreaming of dry land, a shower, a good meal and a bottle or two of Barbados’ famous Mt Gay rum!

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Dutch Teenager Breaks World Single Handed Sailing Record

| Maritime News and Events, Travel and Cruising | January 24, 2012

Dutch teen Laura Dekker has just become the youngest sailor ever to undertake and complete a single handed circumnavigation of the globe.

The sixteen year old finished her single handed round-the-globe voyage when she finally sailed into the harbour of St Maarten in the Caribbean, which is jointly administered by the French and Dutch governments.

It looked at first that she would not be allowed to start the intrepid voyage at such an early age when the Dutch social affairs department considered that she was far too young to take on the challenge. The court case that involved her and her family, who were behind the project, reached world attention two years ago.

Dekker sailed from the island less than a year ago, beating the last record by 8 months.

Laura Decker © Savyasachi Creative Commons Wikipedia

As she reaches the age of 17 on the 20th September, she had to finish her voyage before the 16th September in order to claim the record for the youngest sailor to complete a world trip without any assistance.

Miss Dekker’s ketch, named Guppy, arrived in St Maarten almost a year after her voyage started.

“I can’t really absorb what I have just done,” she said to journalists once she had her feet firmly planted on dry land.

“The sailing was at all times really good and I often viewed dolphins along the way” she said when interviewed at the dockside after arrival.

She said that she would be spending the coming days on the island cleaning up the 12 metre boat before she returns to school.

Her parents, of course, were there amidst a crowd of 450 onlookers who were there to welcome the teenager. Scores of people cheered as Dekker waved her arms to them, cried and then went across the dock along with her mum, dad, sister and grandparents, who had met her out at sea earlier in the day.

Dekker finally made her arrival in St. Maarten after fighting high seas and strong winds on the last, 40-day section from Cape Town in South Africa.

The starting point of her trip became St Maarten instead of the original plan of Gibraltar.

The previous holder of the record was Australian teenager Jessica Watson, who gained this achievement in May 2010, just 3 days before she reached her 17th birthday.

But the Dutch girl’s achievement and challenge was not quite the same as Jessica’s, who went around the world non-stop while Laura sailed from one port to another and was not at sea for longer than 3 weeks.

Dekker was born in the port of Whangarei in New Zealand to sea going parents while they were completing a six year circumnavigation of their own, and said she did her first solo sail at the age of 6. By the age of 10 years old she said, she started to dream about sailing around the world. She celebrated her sixteenth birthday while at sea, consuming doughnuts for breakfast after having spent a bit of time in port with her father and some friends the previous night in Darwin on the north coast of Australia.

The teen sailed more than 26,000 miles on a journey that included places that sound like a scan through an online travel brochure: the Canary Islands, the Galapagos, Panama, Fiji, Tonga, Bora Bora, Australia, South Africa and St. Maarten.

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Traditional Boats Still Sail Bali’s Seas

| Travel and Cruising | January 3, 2012

We left the Lombok anchorage in the dead of night – to sail to Bali we had to take advantage of the strong north west going current that flowed up through the Lombok Strait that was timed by the passage of the moon. Calculations showed us that it would flow in the right direction only in the early morning. This was a double advantage as we could also use the southerly winds that only blow at night and in the early morning. By 5 a.m. we had a favourable, brisk twenty knots from the south and we were flying across the strait.

As dawn slowly put out golden tentacles of light towards the western sky a dramatic spectacle opened up. Hundreds of gaily painted small sailing boats – looking like gaudy spiders – were fanning out in all directions from the Bali shore. Mount Agung, the mountain of God, reared up behind this panorama, providing the perfect backdrop.

These little outrigger and lateen rigged boats were unique to the shores of Bali and Lombok and are obviously still in wide use today and are called jukung. They are the Balinese answer to the “Hobie” but are not just used for leisure.
The Balinese use the night wind to take them far offshore to the fishing grounds and then return as the wind slowly reverses to an onshore sea breeze. The fisherman / sailor who steers the jukung out to sea and back doesn’t waste time and usually tows a trolling line and lure in both directions, the speed of the boat normally giving a fair chance of catching a passing mackerel or tuna.

Drakkar bali © velvetocean Fotolia.com

These little fishing boats have no need for an outboard, although larger craft built with the same basic design do carry engines elsewhere in Indonesia. They can only carry one or two people at the most and with a maximum length of about five meters can easily be dragged up on any of Bali’s volcanic, black sand beaches.

The Balinese do everything in life according to age old ritual and the way they build and use their jukung is no different. The wood that is favoured is the belalu or camplung tree and it can only be cut down on a special date that fits in with religious ritual according to the Balinese calendar. Another special date is reserved for the commencement of boat construction. The size of the boat that is built depends on the dimensions of the owner, so shorter men build smaller boats, although the actual work is often a communal effort.

The two outriggers or floats are attached in a way that symbolises the degree of symmetry which the boat builders feel is suitable, while the launching of the finished and painted boat is accompanied by offerings of flowers, fruit and rice to appease the gods. The bow is decorated with a fierce looking image of the mythical gajah minah or elephant fish, whose bulging eyes ensures good navigation in the dark and safe passage through rough seas.

These days, some Balinese fishermen are succumbing to the pressures and lure of the tourist rupiah and converting their boats into day pleasure boats for tourists off the beach and even building a glass bottom into some to help their customers view Bali’s offshore coral reefs.

As we closed the North Eastern shores of Bali’s vivid green and fertile land, we passed dozens of boats as they weaved expertly in and out around our trajectory. With one hand on the tiller and another holding a line, they grinned and waved – no doubt we both eyed each other up with curiosity and respect

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Circumnavigating the World by Yacht is a Complex Issue

| Travel and Cruising | September 23, 2011

This is the time of year for yachts of all nations to gather at the Rock of Gibraltar to make the Atlantic Crossing over to the Caribbean via the Canary Islands. Some yachts sail around the Atlantic coast to either Portugal or the Moroccan ports while others leave directly from Gibraltar. September is too early to arrive in the Caribbean as it is still in the middle of the hurricane season but they are itching to start their journey and with the large number of marinas in the various Canary Islands along with an assortment of good anchorages there is no better place to while away a few weeks waiting for a weather window to cross over to the romantic Caribbean.

Some of these yachtsmen and women will complete their journey under the watchful eye of the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers and spend months or even years basing their yachts in marinas or anchorages scattered through the island group flourishing in the clear, rich waters of the Caribbean while others will spend the season there then sail back to Europe via Bermuda and the Azores. However, it is those whose dreams are to complete the full global circle that will be making nail biting decisions as to what they should do next.

Recent reports from experts on circumnavigating and piracy are now stressing that the Indian Ocean and the Gulf of Aden and even parts of the Red Sea have turned into no go areas. Pirate attacks on yachts alone are now approaching disturbing proportions with a 1 in 20 chance of experiencing an attack in the danger zones. The pirates have no inhibitions and don’t discriminate on size of yacht or its seeming wealth value. The valuable cargo has become the crew themselves, with hefty ransoms being demanded for their release. It is often many months before incarcerated crew is released after much haggling over ransom demands.

Rope on sailing boat in the sea © Sebastian Duda - Fotolia.com

More alarming is that in the 2010 -2011 year, five yachts people have been killed in the Indian Ocean and a further ten have been kidnapped. This has amounted to five attacks on yachts, with four of them being successful.

However, commercial shipping has benefitted hugely by the presence of a fleet of coalition warships that have been operating a safe corridor between the Omani port of Salalah and the Bab El Mandeb (Gates of Sorrow), the entry to the Red Sea, and which appears to have significantly halted large scale piracy for the time being, in that area. Pirates are more elusive than that and have spread their wings to extensive parts of the Indian Ocean. They are roaming around areas that are too massive to successfully police and which leave commercial ships and yacht crews vulnerable.

Coupled with the problems of piracy there are other hurdles to consider in the Middle East. Political instability in Yemen, Sudan and Egypt has made transiting the coasts of those countries increasingly unpredictable and in the period between January and May 2011 there was great relief by yacht crews when they finally arrived safely in Port Said on the Mediterranean coast of Egypt.

Joining or organising a military style convoy of other yachts has been the recent way to deal with the uncertainty of piracy but this is now not a guarantee of safety and the coalition warships have set no priority on shadowing and protecting such convoys.

Sailing on the oceans of the world can be exhilarating, awe inspiring and challenging and, if well prepared, quite doable, but protecting oneself from a pirate attack is something different altogether.

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Youngest Crew for 2011 Sydney to Hobart Race

| Travel and Cruising | September 8, 2011

Entries have just been called for the 67th Rolex Sydney to Hobart Yacht race for Boxing Day this year that attracts world wide attention year in year out. Dogged with dismastings, gale force winds and determined sailors, it has never in its history been cancelled despite the vagaries of the great Southern Ocean. This is a treacherous stretch of sea that has been, for the last 66 years, the challenge of many a sailor from around the world.

This year’s event is about to attract the youngest crew ever as 18 year old Jessica Watson, who holds the record for the youngest female sailor to sail around the globe unaided, is to captain the 38 foot Ella Bache – Another Challenge. The age range of the crew will be younger than the Melbourne University Students’ team that finished the race in 2004 placed 4th in the 38 class.

This will be a completely different sailor’s cap for Jessica to wear as she won’t only be taking on the elements once again in the stretch of water that heralded the completion of her solo voyage but she will have to think and co-operate and lead a crew of young sailors as well. Her youthful leadership qualities will have to shine if she wants to get the most out of Ella Bache – Another Challenge and feel that she has met this racing challenge to its full.

yacht regatta at sydney harbor © Oksana Perkins - Fotolia.com

Watson will captain a mixed gender team which will include Britain’s round the world sailor Mike Perham and Lisa Chamberlain who received the Rani Trophy for exceptional seamanship last year. Training will commence in early October which consists of a number of preliminary races which precede the final event commencing on the 26th December.

Meanwhile other yachtsmen and women have announced their intentions to enter the race, one of which is the Super- Maxi Wild Oats X1 which is the current defending champion and has been awarded line honours in the previous six Sydney Hobart races. Taking on this fast Maxi will be Investec Loyal and Rambler 100. All three of these yachts are in the process of going through major facelifts to enhance their speed and competitiveness. This means changes in keel configurations and tuning up rigs. The strength of mind to be the winner of the race means that the yachts are pushed to their limits using all angles of the wind to drive them as close to Hobart as they can in the shortest period of time. The hope is for favourable northerly winds but the notorious southerly busters often roar through the shallow and turbulent Bass Strait between mainland Australia and Tasmania causing havoc for the racing fleet as was witnessed in 1998 where yachts pulled out and several knockdowns and capsizes were witnessed.

The organiser of the Sydney Hobart race, the Cruising Yacht Club of Australia (CYCA), is expecting an international contingent of approximately ninety yachts which will be at the start line on Boxing Day, December 26 at 1pm Australian Eastern Daylight Time (AEDT) for the intrepid annual 628 nautical mile hop to Hobart.

As usual, the commencement of the Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race will be broadcast on the Seven Network throughout Australia, by webcast live to international spectators on Yahoo!7 and via the Australia Network within the Asia Pacific community.

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The Reef Strewn Waters of Australia Conquered by Laura

| Maritime News and Events, Travel and Cruising | September 2, 2011

Barely a year ago teenager Laura Dekker departed from Gibraltar amidst controversy, as to whether at the young age of fourteen she could safely circumnavigate the dangerous oceans of the globe unaided and with the necessary skills that often include snap decision making, heavy physical work and the ability to accurately read and operate a multitude of electronic devices that are the key to safely navigate ocean waters these days. As well as the special skills required to conquer loneliness and growing up where there are no parents to guide her through her dream.

Against all odds she has now safely arrived in Darwin, after navigating through the reef strewn waters of the Torres Strait. Two oceans crossed and with some equipment to replace, she is now going to be residing in Darwin for a period while she prepares for the challenges of the Indian Ocean.

The controversy started for this young Dutch teenager, who was determined to be the youngest female solo sailor to sail around the world, when the Dutch government tried to remove her from her parents in a bid to ensure that she did not take on this dangerous journey. Critics had stated that she was far too young negotiate such a challenging journey. She managed to wrest with the authorities and start her dream accompanied to Gibraltar where she was let off her lease to complete this awesome journey. Not for the faint hearted of course but doable by those those have the determination to conquer the challenge.

Sunser Ships Darwin Australia © jelwolf - Fotolia.com

Up to this point, Dekker and a team led by her father, have conducted everything correctly when it comes to timing and vessel preparation. She has come across no extraordinary issues with the weather or with Guppy, her 38-foot ketch rigged yacht.

Her final crossing will be the Indian Ocean, which at present there is no certainty as to whether she will sail through the notorious pirates alley between Somalia and Aden (The Gulf of Aden) or via the almost equally dangerous crossing to South Africa via Mauritius and Madagascar and then up through the south Atlantic and into the north.

Born on a yacht in the well renowned yachting port of Whangarei in New Zealand, from a tender age Laura Dekker dreamed of sailing the world unaided and as she is more of a doer than a dreamer this challenge finally got underway. At thirteen, she defiantly decided that she was more than prepared for her first significant solo journey, and once on board Guppy she departed the harbour of Maurik and set her compass course for a waypoint in England. She returned not that long after and her father had hoped his aspirant daughter might have ditched her dream after several days alone on the sea with the wind, waves and rain for her friends. That trip in itself only propelled her into action still further until she finally departed Gibraltar on the 10th August 2010, heading to the Canaries and taking the seasonal north east trades to the Caribbean, through the Panama Canal and across the Pacific Ocean to Australia via the Galapagos Islands and the Marquesas.

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Ancient Dahabeahs Still Sail the Nile in Style.

| Travel and Cruising | August 25, 2011

Dahabeahs, spelt seemingly in a dozen different ways, but named from the Arabic, still ply the River Nile in Egypt in small numbers today. These flat bottomed barge-like sailing boats have been around for hundreds of years. On the walls of Pharaonic tombs are pictures of craft that look remarkably similar. In Ancient times, the ancestors of dahabeahs sailed South with the predominant Northerly winds, ascending the Nile, trading with communities along the route. As the river flowed northwards towards its outlet in the Mediterranean, the return journey was aided by the river’s flow, even if it required tacking down and across the river constantly or using oars.

Dahabeahs are twin sailed, with one larger lateen sail at the front, and one smaller one at the rear. The rulers of Egypt in the Ottoman era used gilded dahabeah, and the name of the boat is derived from the Arabic for “gold”, dahabiyyah.

The arrival of steam powered boats spelt the end of the age of sail nearly everywhere in the world and Egypt proved no different in its response to the impact of the new era of fossil fuel. In the 1920’s and 1930’s the dahabeyahs enjoyed something of a revival as they were decked out for the rich and powerful of Egypt’s elite, and wealthy foreign travellers. They were built with an iron hull and deck, rather than of imported timber and equipped with a motor and luxurious cabins, bathrooms and had space for teams of servants. The motor allowed them to keep moving when there was no wind or return to the towns of the North without waiting for the current, paddling or tacking.

Falucas en el Nilo © Maria Vazquez - Fotolia.com

These wealthy travelers often rented the boats for several weeks at a time and gently sailed up river with the wind, stopping at temples, monuments and other sites of antiquity as they went. The river breeze helped to keep the temperature down and insects away from the boat.

The few remaining dahabeahs of today are almost exclusively designed for the tourist trade, although their smaller sister boats, the more common feluccas are still used by Egyptians for everyday trading and passenger transport up and down the Nile. Those people who visit Cairo, Aswan or Luxor and go for a day sail or, more likely, an evening sail up and down the river to watch the sunset, are much more likely to be on a felucca.

The modern dahabeahs, up to 40 metres long and six or seven metres wide are much more likely than before to be built out of beautifully crafted timbers. Most of these vessels have between four to ten cabins and begin their journeys in Luxor or Aswan and sail South to view the great monuments like the “Valleys of the Kings and Queens” or temple sites at places like Edfu, Kom Ombo and Philae.
Egypt, of course, would not really exist without the Nile. It has proved the dominant feature of every aspect of Egyptian life and culture throughout the ages, so a slow journey by sailing boat fashioned like those of antiquity is a fitting way to visit this country.

The dahabeahs are normally fitted out so that their top deck becomes the social and dining centre of the boat, with its views of the riverside communities and ability to catch the breeze. Passengers are normally accommodated in rows of cabins towards the bow of the boat on either side.

In keeping with their ancestral craft, these tourist oriented dahabeahs still sail South without the need to use their engine, unless the wind dies, but will also have back up generators to provide electricity for the cabins.

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Crossing the Atlantic under Sail has Never Been so Popular

| Travel and Cruising | August 2, 2011

It’s early days yet to cross the Atlantic as the hurricane season is in full swing in the Caribbean but yachts of all shapes and sizes are making the slow windward plod from their wintering spots in the Mediterranean over to Gibraltar to stock up, do any repairs and upgrade any equipment before commencing the first stage south westwards across to the Canary Islands, a distance offshore from the African coast some 800 miles. According to weather experts the best time to make this passage is in September and then there is the wait in the Canaries until November when the hurricane season in the Caribbean has blown itself out.

En route to the Canaries, some will make diversions to Madeira or ports on the Moroccan coast that breaks up the passage and gives them a chance to assess their equipment. Others will make the direct passage and spend time enjoying the marinas and anchorages that can be found amongst the collection of volcanic islands.

Once underway from Las Palmas on the island of Gran Canaria, a popular departure point, again some yachts will make a beeline for the Leeward Island group in the Caribbean with the expectation of picking up the reliable, favourable north east trade winds which will ensure a fast passage is accomplished. The island of St Lucia is 2700 nautical miles in a straight line and it can from 14 to 30 days to reach. There are ways of breaking up the long slog by going closer to the African coast and making a scheduled stopover at the Cape Verde Islands, where sailors are welcomed with open arms to this little visited archipelago.

ARC departure from Las Palmas, Canary Islands. November 2005

Many yachts that are not in an organized rally like the ARC make this diversion with the aim of arriving in the Caribbean a bit later so as to avoid frequent wind and rain squalls that are more in evidence in the early part of December. Of course, they get to visit a new island group as well. There are other options for the cruisers that do not intend to rush across the Atlantic and that is a visit to the Gambia and Senegal, which would open up a new culture for many but the sail westwards still means time is pressing as the season for safe sailing in the Caribbean is dominated by the long hurricane season which can start as early as April.

These days with the increasing number of yachts making the Atlantic passage many choose to join the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC).
Over 200 yachts from all over the globe will participate in this annual transatlantic rally, organised by the World Cruising Club. It departs at the normal spot on Gran Canaria in late November. It is designed to be a friendly race for cruising yachts and allows the Atlantic crossing to be both safer and more fun. In fact the ARC is the now a common way for cruising yachts to cross the Atlantic. The fastest mega yachts may only take about two weeks and the slower smaller yachts upwards of three weeks. One of the most useful points about joining an organised rally is that the organisers insist that all entrants are fully prepared, by offering workshops on safety and communications for those participants who have little or no offshore experience.

Throughout the rally there is a daily radio net scheduled so that yachts can keep in contact with the rally base and it ensures the safety of all participants. All boats’ positions are monitored by rally organisers using transponders attached to the masts. It’s not all serious stuff though as a series of entertainment events are organised at both ends of the rally as well.
Despite the current recession, the rally numbers for 2011 have some time ago reached their full quota of 200. The largest are the British flagged “Challenger Two” and “Challenger Three” that classify themselves as tall ships at 21.63 metres and are sponsored by Tall Ships Adventures. The smallest at 9.6 metres is the Norwegian flagged “Tur-bo.”

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The North West Passage – Myth Turns to Reality

| Travel and Cruising | July 26, 2011

When trade between East and West was steadily becoming the norm in the seventeenth Century there was this great dream by traders and ship owners that a short cut could be found to link the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. It was eventually discovered, after much searching and hardship, and called the North West Passage – far north in the Arctic Circle above what is now Canada. It was learnt that this route could be only made by ships, if at all, for a brief period in the summer time before the ice sheets closed it up completely. Ice could simply crush any obstacle that may get caught in its grip.

It was Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen who confirmed the route in 1906 when he sailed successfully right through the passage. Before this, many passage seekers died a miserable death from starvation, scurvy and the extreme cold trying to find their way with the hope that they may find wealth and fortune in the Far East. Ships madev of timber were crushed in the ice which, even if it cannot be seen floating on the surface, lurks unseen far below.

It is only in the last five years or so that the North West passage has become viable as a shipping route. It would not take much to guess why. It is the simple fact of global warming that has caused the Arctic ice to recede, thus opening the passage for at least four months of the year. In the summertime ice breakers are at the ready but aren’t always required to keep the passage free of floating ice.

Arctic Schooner © George Bailey - Fotolia.com

Shipping companies who are immersed in the fears surrounding piracy attacks in the Indian Ocean and the Gulf of Aden are now considering using the route as their regular passage. Some shipping companies have already instructed ships’ captains to take cargo round the longer sea route that takes in the Cape of Good Hope around South Africa to avoid the piracy hot spots. This is of course of considerable cost to them and delays in delivering goods can be expected as well.

The North West passage is the potential answer that everyone is looking for as it is only one third of the distance between Europe and the Far East ports when compared to using the Suez Canal. It saves money on fuel; it takes a shorter period of time and at the moment there are no pirates. The race is on to ship minerals to China by the fastest and cheapest route before the demand wanes.
Of course, there are numerous drawbacks to using this route. In the first instance it is very poorly charted and, only recently, a strengthened cruise ship struck an uncharted undersea cliff in northern Canada. These types of accidents will still happen until the area has been better charted. The electronic navigational instruments used by all manner of sea craft today have not been tried and tested in areas of extremely low temperatures for long periods of time. There are still some lethal combinations of uncharted hazards, untested electronics and sea fog that could spell disaster for the unwary. However, a number of sailing yachts have made this trip in recent years following in the footsteps of Amundsen and they are the least seaworthy of today’s waterborne fleet.

Aside from the natural hazards, it is still not crystal clear as to whether the North West passage is owned by Canada or is in international waters. These things seem somewhat trivial but when it comes to the need for search and rescue services somebody has to be held responsible.

There are environmental considerations as well. As it is so remote, only the hardiest of travellers make this trip north to discover the wealth of wildlife and the dramatic Arctic scenery. Environmentalists are concerned that increasing traffic movement and the possibility of oil spills and other waste accidents could be potentially disastrous when it comes to protecting the wildlife populations which are already losing their icy habitats as a result of global warming. Polar bears and other Arctic mammals use the ice to provide bridges to widen their territories and search for food and mates.

Overall, there will most certainly be some interesting developments in the Arctic Circle in the coming years and it will be curious to see who and what will be the winners and losers with the expectation that by 2030 as much as two percent of world shipping will be taking this route, increasing to five percent by 2050.

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Sailing in the Electronic Age

| Travel and Cruising | July 3, 2011

Tall ships of centuries past would without doubt have gladly taken on the array of labour saving electronics available to yachts and ships today. The shoreline observer of yachts seen sailing along the horizon might think that the skippers are oblivious to the electronic age and they are living a simple life on the ocean. This is a total misconception. Skippers and crews under sail or motor select what they want for their yachts and boats and there are very few today who do not take advantage of simple to operate onboard electronics.

Moreover, these marine electronics have been the saviour of the yachting fraternity as they help to eliminate human error. The depth sounder, for example, in olden days was simply a piece of twine twirled around a stick so that it could run out easily and then it was fastened to a small piece of lead heavy enough to defy a current. A piece of tar would have been stuck at the tip of the lead to identify the contents of the sea floor so that it could be assessed for holding quality before dropping anchor.
Additionally, a man would be aloft peering at the horizon for discoloured water that might mean a sandbank or reef was coming all too close. Today, small and large pleasure craft are fitted with electronic depth sounders and forward looking sonars. The former can detect contours on the seabed as well as depths; the latter can search for the underwater rock, sandbank or reef in advance. Such instruments would no doubt in time gone by have saved many a ship from severe groundings or becoming complete wrecks.

ARC departure from Las Palmas, Canary Islands. November 2005

However, there is a downside to the use of electronics. If the instrument was to breakdown a very bewildered sailor will be wracking his brain as to what to do. Turning to the lead line will be his or her only choice or maybe install two electronic depth sounders, one in reserve. The batteries used to store the electricity to power onboard instruments have to be well maintained to ensure a constant flow of electricity can get to the units.

The greatest boon to navigation was the release of GPS units onto the market back in the early 1990’s. Their introduction was serious business for the mushrooming yachting fraternity. No need to take bearings of difficult to identify landmarks, no need to spread the chart out on a large table to plot a progressive course. No need, on those long ocean passages, to get out the sextant at noon, take a sight from the sun, do some arithmetic and come out with an approximate position. This can all be done in a small hand sized electronic instrument that with a number of useful features installed, which with a chart loaded onto the memory, can tell the exact position of the boat, what speed it is going and what course it is following. The consequences of wholesale failure defeat the imagination. To allay one’s fears at least two battery operated handheld ones are normally kept in reserve.

To add to the comfort of living on a ship big or small is the autopilot. No ship’s captain would be without one. The course is set using the GPS, the co-ordinates of the destination or waypoint are inputed into the autopilot and the helmsperson just sits down and only gets up when a bleep is heard indicating the ship is off course. The alarms of other instruments might occasionally ring in the ears as well. The echo sounder rings shrilly, when the water gets too shallow, the radar and the A.I.S when a ship or object gets too close and the telephone, when a relative is trying to communicate.

These instruments are the tip of the iceberg when it comes to electronic clutter. The large chart table has been superceded by rows and rows of instrument panels – a chart plotter for one can come in a good TV size so it can be viewed from every corner of the saloon. The captain and his crew can watch the yacht slither and slide over the ocean waves in the comfort of a room almost as spacious as the living room in a house. The radar screen is busy clicking away as well showing up the image of rain clouds and ships as they close in on the boat. Even further from ocean reality is the satellite communications allowing onboard internet and telephone calls from the tops of ocean waves. Grandma will be cheerily chatting with her grand kids and saying “wish you were here.”

The items standard in an ordinary home, in an ordinary town in an ordinary country are appliances such as washing machines, microwaves and widescreen TV’s. They are all present in various shapes and forms on yachts as well. De salinators providing onboard showering and washing facilities are now common too. There are very few sailors left today who have not merged with the electronic age. In fact, the availability of these creature comforts has aided in bringing about a burgeoning yachting community. No longer is the toothbrush and a thimble of water passed on from captain to crew.

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